So 16psi cap makes it 263degF boiling point, which is on the extra safe side, lol, but there is a reason for it You get approx, 2.5deg increase in boiling point for each pound of pressure Your engines operating temp should be 190-220degFĥ0/50 coolant/water mix boils at 223degF with no pressure Well the higher the pressure the faster it will leak, so at 16psi, your caps rating, it will leak coolant faster after it warms up Is there any type of sealer that would seal this leak without creating problems throughout the cooling system? Continue to drive it and keep check on oil conditions for water/oil mix? Hopefully damage to the gasket would not extend to a cylinder.Ģ. Do I have any options other than these.ġ. If all of this is correct, I see big bucks for this repair. Because of the test results up to this point, I believe the bottom of the cylinder head gasket is broken/damaged to the outside of the block and not to a cylinder. There is an oil leak reward in the valley probably from the cylinder head gasket. I do not believe that the coolant is coming from the valley on the top right of the engine because I can't find any moisture even near the thermostat housing. There is a wet trail to the rear of the freeze plug about 2" and to the front of the block and cylinder head. The freeze plug is recessed into the block and there is definitely no moisture around the plug itself. The leak is on the right side of the engine directly above the first freeze plug. The pressure did fall but only slightly faster than the 20 psi test. No evidence of leak at water pump weep hole. I pressurized the system to 25 psi, spun the engine with coil disconnected. The UV Dye is safe for engine, AC or oil systems, and can not be seen without UV light so no visible marks or trailsĬheck the Overflow/reservoir hose, mine had a small crack, where it ran on top of rad, and leaked only when hot, and coolant on rad evaporated pretty fastįound my first drops of engine coolant today. UV(ultra violet) Dye, you can get UV dye kit with UV flashlight, you add the dye to the coolant and run the engine for a few days, then in the dark use the UV flashlight to see if there is a dye trail leading to the leak point. You pump up the COLD cooling system to 20-25psi and watch for pressure to start dropping, and if it does then look for the coolant leaking out and dripping to the ground You can rent a pressure tester, basically a Rad cap with a gauge and a hand pump Its most likely to be an rad/engine leak since you don't see coolant on the ground, it is not leaking until system has pressure which is after coolant gets hot, so coolant is leaking at a place where it is evaporating before it can drip to the ground
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